FF_Patterns_Manscoat_0.pdf

NOTES :

1. Fabric grain follows vertical lines of graph paper.

2. Pattern pieces are drawn without seam allowance.

3. Six 1¼-inch-diameter self-covered buttons with six 1¼-

inch-long buttonholes create a double-breasted front.

4. The collar fall is tacked to the collar stand ¼ inch from

the top of the roll line at the center front.

5. Each sleeve cuff is secured with three ¾-inch-diameter

self-covered buttons and three 7/ -inch-long buttonholes.

The cuff is inished with a ¼-inch folded edge.The

buttonholes are on a cuff extension, sewn to one side of

the cuff and folded under to create a buttonhole facing.

Man’s Coat, France, 1790–95, silk and cotton plain weave and silk satin

stripes, center-back length: 49 in. (124.46 cm), purchased with funds

provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson,

with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foun-

dation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, GraceTsao,

Associates/LACMA

6. Pocket laps have a running-stitch ¾ inch from the top

of the pocket-lap seams.

7. Side seams end at the waist; below waist, fold line A of

the front coattail is lined up with line B, and fold line C

of the back coattail is lined up with line D. One button

reinforces the pleats at the top of each tail, while three

additional buttons are placed along the scalloped edge,

tacking the front and back coattail edges creating a pair

of vertical pleats at either side of the center-back coat-

tail vent.

This handsewn silk tailcoat, with its high collar, wide lapels,

short front, and long back exempliies how French f ashion

extremists ( incroyables ) adopted and exaggerated tradi-

tional wool riding coats from England. The sleeves of this

tailcoat, set unnaturally close together, forced the wearer

to hold his shoulders back and thrust his chest forward to

create a “pouter pigeon” silhouette which was fashion-

able in the late eighteenth century.

8. The coat is lined with silk plain weave; the upper back,

sleeves, and pockets are lined with linen plain weave.

The collar stand is lined with the same silk-and-cotton

fabric that makes up the coat.

Man’s Coat , France, 1790–95

Lapel begins

at notch

Roll line

COLLAR

STAND

LAPEL

Button

placement

COLLAR

FALL

Shoulder seam

Buttonhole

placement

BACK

FRONT

Lapel ends

at notch

Pleat

POCKET

FLAP

UPPER

SLEEVE

UNDER

SLEEVE

Button

placement

UPPER

POCKET

LINING

UNDER

POCKET

LINING

CUFF

EXTENSION

CUFF

Underlap

DETAIL OF BACK

VENT AND PLEATS

1: 1 Inch

CF = Center front

CB = Center back

= Pieced fabric

= Fold line

Patterns recreated and drawn byThomas John Bernard

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