finewine309eng 2 - finewine.pdf - fine wine - yeciu

InspIratIonal wIne knowledge and the people behInd the drInk

September

2009

INTERNATIONAL

3 castles in Saint Emilion sId 4

Wine turns into light sId11

Saint Emilion - a the town sId 29

contents >

PagE 4 A ramble Between three castles in Saint Emilion PagE 11 Magniicent when fortiied wine turns into light PagE 16 Fine Wine tasting 2009

PagE 24 Something old and something new at the Marquis of Murrieta´s PagE 26 Total perfection and respect for the environment PagE 29 Saint

Emilion - a little map of the town PagE 33 Wine tour to Bordeaux PagE 36 Young and successful PagE 37 Licensing laws - for whom? PagE 39

Focus on organic cultivation

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

noticE

a StYliSh italian

SatEllitE PhotograPhY aS an aid to harvESting.

Having diiculty in deciding when to harvest? Now there is a tool that really

makes it a lot easier. We’re talking about Satellite Photography. It’s a French

company called ICV (Institut Cooperatif du Vin) who have created the service

which they call Oeno view (from the Greek =Oinos : wine) They’ve been ex-

perimenting fully for 2 years in Languedoc -Rossillon. With this kind of service

and the experiments have been extremely promising, which of course was the

deciding factor when the service idea launched.

The idea is that you can reach the vines without leaving your oice., that you

can actually see the grapes mature on each individual vine. Not least it means

that wine producers can cut some costs , by running a large part of vineyard

operation from his oice. Apart from many Languedoc producers that have

already began working with Oenview, more Bordeaux producers are said to

ins of twelve interested in the service.

Michele Benetti, the son of Massimo

Benetti, who runs the Umani Ronchi

was on a lying visit to Stockholm. A

vertical tasting of Le Busche Cumaro

was carried out under the auspices

of the editors of “Allt on Vin”, (Every-

thing About Wine) magazine at their

Stora Essingen HQ. The wines were

put to the test in conjunction with

some modern cuisine, which is as it

should be. Apart from its operation in

Marche Umani Ronche has also been

active in the neighboring region of

Abruzzo for quite some time devel-

oping their Montepulcioni wines.

Our ambition is to reach the same pin-

nacle with the Abruzzi wines as our

wines from Marche.

Michele is referring to Verdichio die

Catelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Plenio

and of course the Casal di Serra Vec-

chie Vigne. Which incidently is also a

Verdicchio.

JFC

anciEnt graPES BEhind thE honorEd chilEan BuBBlE

The Pais grape that the old Jesuits took with them from Spain to the new world

back in the 16th century is in fact the very irst Vitis Vinifera in America (common

grape originating from the Mediterranean Region) is enjoying an interesting

renaissance. In Chile they’ve started to produce an interesting efervescent wine

out of the old distrusted grape. Previously they have always attributed the grape

to being associated more to quantity than quality, which is something that is

being re-evaluated today. Recently a sparkling wine made from this grape was

awarded a prize in Chile. Not only for its quality but also because they were us-

ing this very traditional South American grape.

Which was in fact the idea behind this exciting venture. Chile’s minister of Ag-

riculture who was a member of the jury, praised it as a very good example of

creativity within the wine industry.

The name behind this wine is Spain’s most well known wine celebrity Miguel

Torres, who’s had vineyards in the country since the early 70´s.

His commented in the Chilean press that he is very pleased with this distin-

guished honor, which showed that there was still much to do within wine making.

JFC

WELCOME TO A NEW EDITION OF FINE WINE

Your WinE magazinE on thE nEt.

2009 an Exciting Year

To borrow an old bespoke tailor’s metaphor, for the irst 6 months of this year the wine

importers have been cutting their coats according to their cloth. That is to say they have been

downsizing their staf and the amount of product they are used to dealing with. Others have

been made redundant, been re-employed and lost their jobs again. Many producers have

changed importers and so on. However there is one thing you can be sure of. Economical

down turns always brings with it loads of creative, new ideas and many of them will be the

ones that drag us back into high productivity again in the near future

One thing that doesn´t seem to efect at all by the state of the economy and the market is the Beverage Auctions in

Stockholm. At the beginning of the summer they broke new sales records again. As my Friend Anders Wagner says;

-“ Anybody who buys quality, grieves only once!” It looks like he´s got the right idea, when it comes to Fine Wines.

Ove Canemyr

Editor in Chief, Fine Wine International.

It is acceptable to send a copy of Fine Wine International to friends and acquaintances Who are interested in Fine

Wines and have reached the age of 20 years old. Sends us tips about interesting occurrences, meetings and so

on.ove.canemyr@trendsetter.se We cannot take responsibility for unsolicited material. Please feel free to quote

from Fine Wine but remember to quote your sources.

rEdaktion: Ove Canemyr, Chefredaktör, Fine Wine/tTendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout: Sophie L. Slettengren,

byDesign AB, sophie@bydesign.se English translations; Roger Brett, Broadarts, broadarts@tele2.com

Omslagsfoto: Anne-Marie Canemyr

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

notiSEr

thErE’S no Pain likE

chamPagnE

The Most Expensive Champagne In The

World. Only For The Chosen Few

a 60 YEar old guESt in Stockholm

This year marks the 60th anniversary

that KWV Roodeberg began produc-

ing wine in South Africa.

Today Sweden is the absolutely the

most important market and the

have expanded to become the 4th

most sold wines in the State owned

Swedish of-license chain, the Sys-

tem Bolaget. To celebrate this they

recently held a three decade vertical

tasting with Arvid Nordquist their

importer in Stockholm.

“We’re constantly looking for im-

provement”, says Richard Rowe, by

way of an introduction, he went on

to say: “But the big challenge in the

future will be keeping down the level

of alcohol”. (it is well know nowadays

that this is easier said than done be-

cause of the rise in the mean tem-

perature all over the world.)

Richard Rowe has been the head

winemaker at Roodeberg for about a

year has the following suggestion about how to increase the quality of the

wine in the near future.

- “Screw tops would be an improvement-smaller but better oak casks

(French if possible) -less Merlot, down to about 5%- curt down storage on

the wood from 20 to 18 months.

He inishes of with: Soft juicy tannins to balance the fruit. Howe does he

propose to do this?

Well, a larger proportion of Shiraz grapes taken from a cooler region to

increase the elegance, but not for a second to change the classic charac-

teristics.

The Champagne House Perrier-Joust

is launching the most expense cham-

pagne ever to be bottled.

In crates of 12, these precious lagons

will go on sale for 50 thousand Euros

a crate, which breaks down to about

Euro:4166 per bottle, that’s approxi-

mately 42 grand Swedish! But the thing

is not just anybody can cough up and

buy this exclusive tipple. Only those

who have been chosen by the Cham-

pagne house are to be considered to

purchase the izzy drink for a record

sum. Already this super wheeze has

been criticized as a gigantic marketing

ploy. Exactly 100 persons around the

globe are being ofered the chance to

buy 1 crate each along with the chance

to make their way (at their own expense

of course) to meet Hervé Decamps, the

company’s boss and bottle the bubbly

themselves after it has been disgorged.

The earlier record for a bottle of cham-

pagne was held by Moét Chandon and

their Dom Perignon which released with

their limited 3 liter edition which was re-

leased to launch the 2005 ilm festival in

Cannes. The price back then was about

4000 Swedish Crowns a liter.

JFC

Buy and Sell fine wines?

G o i n u n d e r “c l i c k h e re” a n d ve n t i l a te yo u r o p i n i o n s

on Fine Wines. Tell us about your favorites, exciting

p ro d u ce r s yo u’ve m e t o r i nve s t m e n t s yo u’ve m a d e.

We l co m e to t h e Fi n e Wi n e Co m m u n i t y.

Fi n e Wi n e s ve r y ow n h o m e p a g e w w w. f i n e w i n e. n u H e re

yo u’ l l f i n d t h e l a s t 4 e d i t i o n s o f Fi n e Wi n e

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

a ramble between

three castles in

saint emilion

Text Britt Karlsson photo Per Karlsson, bkwine.com

thErE arE quitE fEW wine castles close to the town of St Emilion, but there aren’t too

many that are actually inside the town itself. Well Couvent des Jacobins is. It´s not exactly a 10

hectare vineyard, but it is the only castle that actually makes its St Emilion Grand Cru Classé in

the middle of town. With all of the attendant problems that go along with it. Cramped space,

inaccessibility, but also tons of charm. The owner Rose-Noélle Borde calls the Couvent des

Jacobins her little jewel. She was born in the castle and inherited it from her mother.

Her husband was an attorney and helped her make the whole thing financially feasible. - “Ow-

ning a wine castle is not like it patronizing a “danseuse” like it used to be, says Madame Borde,

it’s more like patronizing a whole ballet troupe.

with an homogenous humidity that

cuts down the evaporation from the

casks. 11 meters down you’ll ind

a magniicent underground cellar.

It is the old quarry that was irst

used back in the 11th century up

to the 17th , but which now serves

as the last storage space for the bot-

tles before they go of to market.

Denis PowerAde is an oenololgist

and wine maker at the Couvent des

Jacobins since 1996.

couvEnt dES JacoBinS- a

doWntoWn JEWEl

he name is a bit of a give -away, it is

not a normal castle, but rather a late

12th century cloister, he Convent

of St James. here used to be wine

produced here even back in those

days. Well appreciated by the Eng-

lish Royal court in the 13th century.

he Joinard-Borde family became

the owners in 1902. Today the tast-

ing room is situated in the Monks

old bakery and one of the two oak

cask cellars is in the refectory. Eight

years ago the beautiful banqueting

hall was renovated and is now a

very technologically modern room

- “IT’S AN ADVANTAGE to work with

an old vineyard he says. “he vines

have mage to attain a respectable

age.” Here at the Couvent they are

>>>

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

between 50 and 80 years old. Par-

ticularly the Cabernet Blanc gets

interesting when the vines begin

to age, he adds”. “he ratio of the

grapes is 75% merlot and 25% ca-

bernet franc. Cabernet Franc needs

structure, says Denis, otherwise

there won’t be any St Emilion, just

a rather banal Merlot, which you

can ind anywhere in the world.

he Merlot needs the support of the

Cabernet Franc, otherwise the wine

develops too quickly.

sider’s opinion and a comparison

to other wines; other appellations

and other countries. he challenge

is to make Couvent des Jacobins

into an inimitable wine and to be

able to do that you have to know

what other wine makers are doing

in other places.” His advice to Mad-

ame Borde is to simplify, minimize

the intervention both in the ields

and the cellars to achieve a purity

in the wines to bring out the mag-

niicent “terroir”. He proposes soft

additional extracts and a long skin

contact, which will allow the tan-

nins time to soften up. he essence

receives a warm fermentation at 28-

30 degrees Celsius and following

that 20-30 days skin contact before

pressing. According to Dubourdieu

the inal result will be a little of the

Bourgogne style in Saint Emilion.

he yield lies between 30-35 hecto-

liter per hectare. Limestone makes

up an important part of the soil. It’s

quite porous, taking up rainwater

like a sponge and returning it to

vines during the dry summer sea-

son. he wines remain in the casks

for a maximum of 12-15 months

with or without stirring. Denis Du-

bourdieu thinks that it´s important

to retain the fruitiness, and that one

should be careful with long periods

of storage on the wood.

he oak must never attain a domi-

nant role.

he wine is then bottled without il-

tering. 40 000 bottles are produced

DENIS DUBOURDIEU , the well know

Professor of Oenology is a consult-

ant to the Castle since 2003.

- “Was there much that needed to

be changed?”.

- “Not at all he says, there was al-

ready a complexity and freshness in

wines”. He will gladly point out that

he only dispenses advice, it is Denis

Pomaréde and Madame Borde who

make all of the decisions.

- “My roll he says is to ofer an out-

>>>

COUVENT DES JACOBINS

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