Costa Blanca- Moraira (topo) Hiszpania, España.pdf

Sector Cueva

Continue down the gully and follow the path rightwards to reach the enormous cave.

Costa Blanca – Moraira - Cap d'Or

The sea cliffs at the resort of Moraira are located below the tower know locally as Torres del Cap

d'Or and provide a pleasant and atmospheric climbing spot.

1. Route 1 7a

30m. Climb the wall on the right side of the cave to a

belay point. Make a hard move to gain the obvious

break and follow this steeply across the middle of the

cave on good holds. Fortunately there is a hands off rest

in the middle. Either lower to the ground from the last

bolt or reverse the route to the belay to recover your

gear.

F.A Chris Newton-Goverd, 2003

Note: A number of the routes are banned due to the proximity of 4 plants of the family Silene

Hifacensis. Please respect this restriction.

No new routes should be developed here.

APPROACH

Travel from Calpe by following the costal road to Moraira. Alternatively follow the N-332 north to

Benissa, keep on the road until you reach the roundabout for Teulada. Pass through the town and

follow the road to Moraira.

Once at Moraira follow the road to the north part of town. The castle tower is visible on the hill top

above the town and this is the location of the cliffs. Just before reaching the sea front take a left turn

steeply up the hillside. Take the first right turn and follow this for 300m. Take a left up the hillside.

When the road ends at a turning space, park the car here and follow the path leading off leftwards.

Follow this up the hill and towards the Cap d’Or tower until reaching a three way sign post. Take the

path down the gully.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE

The cliffs are on the hill side above the ocean and face south east. All the areas are located above the

water and stepped slightly back. It is a good location when there is bad weather in the mountains.

GEAR

All the routes are well protected by bolts.

INFORMATION

New information and updates to this guide are available at www.freewebs.com/costablancarock.

The Gully

The first two climbs are on the left facing outwards as you descend the footpath down the gully.

20m. Start behind a bush 6m further right. Climb past a

thread and up the wide rib above.

1. Route 1

6m. The centre of the short wall.

Richard Davies on Route 1 in the large cave.

2. Route 2 5

6m. From the start of the previous route – move

rightwards.

The next two routes start 2/3 of the way down the gu lly.

3. Route 3 6a

12m. Pull over the roof and climb the bulging wall.

4. Route 4

12m. As for route 3 - climb the crack line.

5. Route 5

Page 1 of 4

Page 2 of 4

Revision 2. 29/07/2004

Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992

Revision 2. 29/07/2004

Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992

Sector Placa

Back down the path from the cave and follow the other fork beneath the walls. The route names are written at the

base of the routes.

10. Se Nace y se Mata 6a

30m. Climb the wall 2m to the right to a belay in the

chimney.

1. Espuma de Mar 6a

24m. Take the rib on the left. Traverse right to a lower

off.

2. Via Ilkatrin 5+

24m. Start in the middle of the scooped wall, climb this

trending slightly leftwards.

3. Arcoiris en el Mar

6. Ripper 6a+

30m. Start 2m to the right. Cimb the steep wall – easier

on the right.

Blasco climbing the start of Ripper. Photo R Davies.

Continue up and along the hillside until reaching large

roof.

7. Mellizo Bomba 6b

1. 30m. 6a Start a little way up the gully on the left and

climb easy slabs to reach the steeper wall. Climb the

wall which turns out to be much easier than initial

appearances would suggest.

2. 30m. 6b Step left and climb through the roof and

follow the weakness up the wall above.

24m. 5. Climb the grey righthand rib.

26m. 4+. Climb the rib to the left trending ramp and

finish on the cliff top.

4. Chulla 5+

8m. 4+ In the center of the wall just right of the corner

crack. Climb to a belay at 8m.

24m. 5+ Step left and climb the wall on excellent rock.

18m. 5. Continue up the wall above.

5. Sal Sol 6a+

30m. 6a+. Start 5m to the right below a shield of good

rock.Follow the line of bolts up the left side of the shield.

Best to finish here.

24m. 4+. The easier wall above.

8. El Penultimo Moican A0/6b+

1. 22m. Cross the roof (2 aid bolts) and climb the crack

above to a belay in the cave.

2. 30m. Move right out of the cave and climb the wall to

a second cave. Exit rightwards from this.

9. Route 9 ?

?m. Right of the large corner, past the hole is a slabby

wall. Climb to the hole and climb straight up.

Page 3 of 4

Page 4 of 4

Revision 2. 29/07/2004

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: